![]() ![]() Instead, the final phalange must be removed to prevent the nail from growing back. This means that your dog’s nails can’t be removed simply – they’d just regenerate and grow back. They are, as VetStreet puts it, “integrally attached” to the bone. Extending from these bones are the phalanges, or fingers/toes.īut here’s where things get a bit different: Unlike your nails, which are only connected to your phalanges by connective tissues ( primarily ligaments), your dog’s nails emerge directly from the bones. The big difference is that your dog’s paws are a bit “scrunched.” They still have wrists and ankles, which are followed by the bones in the “hands” and “feet” – known as metacarpals or metatarsals, respectively. After all, dogs and humans both evolved from the same (distant) mammalian ancestors, so they have a number of similarities. The Anatomy of Your Dog’s PawsĮven though your dog’s paws look very different from your hands and feet, they’re actually pretty structurally similar. Dog declawing is almost universally avoided outside of a few truly unusual cases, and it really doesn’t deserve serious consideration unless your vet recommends it.īelow, we’ll discuss the basics of the procedure, explore the reasons it isn’t appropriate for dogs, and discuss some ways that you can avoid or mitigate problems with claws, without resorting to extreme measures. It isn’t an ideal cat-management strategy, and it is certainly controversial among owners and vets alike.īut while some vets and owners feel that feline onychectomy is an acceptable practice, very few hold the same opinion regarding canine onychectomy. Typically, the procedure is performed to prevent cats from injuring people or destroying furniture and hardwood floors. ![]() You can shine a light through the nail to see the quick if you can’t see it clearly.Although it is becoming increasingly rare, many cats undergo a procedure called an onychectomy – better known as declawing. Use nail clippers or scissors and separate the nail from the leg before cutting so that you don’t catch and cut the skin.īe careful not to cut the nail too short or into the quick ( the blood vessel that runs through the nail). It is important to maintain the right length to stop the claw from growing in the wrong direction or becoming brittle and broken. However, the position of the dew claw further up the leg means that it doesn’t get the same sort of wear.Īs a result, it may grow longer than the others with the potential for deformities and injuries. Smaller companion dogs that spend more time in carpeted rooms may need more help. Your dog’s other nails should maintain a pretty good length and smoothness with regular wear, especially if they get to walk on hard floors or on city streets. In fact, you may need to do so more often with this claw. The dew claw requires grooming just like the other nails on the dog’s paw. They will ask you questions over the phone and then advise on what to do next. I used a sterile pad from our pet first aid kit and used a bandage wrap ( stretchy slightly sticky tape) to keep it in place. Then you can apply a simple dressing to the paw to reduce the risk of infections in the nailbed or the dog irritating the injury. This reduces blood loss but may also help to calm your dog. Make sure you cover the entire nail with powder and gently apply pressure with a clean, lint-free cloth until the bleeding stops. The best thing to do here is to use styptic powder ( or even flour) to stem the bleeding as soon as possible. If you notice a tear to the dew claw or cut into the quick, there will probably be some blood to deal with. Offer reassurance that everything is OK and stay calm. They may be in pain when the claw breaks or tears if the injury is deep in the quick or connective tissue.īe mindful that this might cause your dog to growl or snap at you if it is severe. ![]() Remember to do your best to keep your dog calm at all times during this situation, even if they need emergency care. How to provide immediate first aid at home ![]()
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